torres del paine in the background with puma and host brooke in foreground

Episode #211 Show Notes

Where Hope Flourishes: The Promise of Patagonia’s Route of Parks

June 10, 2025

About Episode #211

Picture this: we’re driving over a mountain pass along the Southern Highway on our last day in Patagonia, snow beginning to fall as we head toward the airport. What started as gentle flakes has turned into a full storm, blanketing the road and surrounding mountains in a fresh layer of white.

There, grazing calmly beside the highway, are two of the most endangered deer in South America – the huemul. I’d never heard of them before this trip. They look almost mythical, standing in the swirling snow, stocky and sure-footed, perfectly adapted to these harsh mountain environments.

That moment crystallized something I’d been feeling throughout our entire journey through Chile’s Route of Parks of Patagonia. Here we were, witnessing one of the rarest wildlife encounters in South America, and it happened by pure chance on a roadside during a snowstorm. Every landscape we explored – from the puma territories of Torres del Paine to the ancient Alerce cathedrals of Pumalín – told the same profound story: We are living through one of the most extraordinary moments in Earth’s history

The Moments That Changed Everything

Welcome back to Rewildology. I’m Brooke Mitchell, and today we’re concluding our journey through Chile’s remarkable Route of Parks of Patagonia – but not in the way you might expect.

Instead of summarizing what we’ve learned, I want to take you back to the moments that changed how I see the world. Because that’s what this journey has really been about – not only documenting a conservation success story, but discovering how profoundly these landscapes can transform anyone willing to truly see them.

A Puma Encounter: Coexistence Firsthand

It started with Rupestre. That afternoon in Torres del Paine when we rounded a bend and there she was – one of South America’s most powerful predators, completely at ease with our presence. For thirty minutes, we watched each other across fifty meters of grassland. And in that watching, something fundamental shifted.

Nicolas Lagos had told me that pumas in Torres del Paine behave differently than anywhere else in the world. They’re visible, relaxed, curious about humans rather than fearful. But experiencing it yourself – locking eyes with a wild puma who chooses to stay rather than flee – that changes you at a cellular level.

Rafa: “The puma is Rupestre.”

What struck me in that moment was how profound this particular dynamic felt. 

Nico: “ They are interacting more than we thought. So, actually we have seen here groups of ten or twelve Pumas, different Pumas, females with cubs, independent cubs from other litters. Adults, males, all of them interacting in a kind of peaceful way.  This also opens another book for the pumas, because you realize that they have cognition. They are able to recognize other individuals and make decisions based on their previous experiences.”

I’ve been to other places where big cats are comfortable around humans in protected areas, but Rupestre seemed to embody something deeper. We often think of protected areas as places where we graciously allow wildlife to exist. But she was actively choosing to allow us into her world, demonstrating a level of confidence and agency that speaks to just how successful conservation in Torres del Paine has become.

The Darwin’s Rhea: Restoring Forgotten Lands

This revelation deepened during our time with the Darwin’s rhea breeding program. Watching Alejandra work with those gangly, impossibly vulnerable chicks, I kept thinking about scale and time. Here was someone dedicating years of her life to a species most people have never heard of, in a landscape that was written off as degraded and worthless just decades ago.

But those rhea chicks aren’t just cute birds learning to survive in the wild. They’re ecosystem engineers. Their grazing patterns, their seed dispersal, their role as prey – all of it helps maintain the grassland community that supports everything from tiny insects to pumas. 

Alejandra (via Emiliana): “ We have liberated 130 animals now. We have been only monitoring and we’ve seen that we’ve been able to make a change. We’ve been seeing a lot of reproduction, more males trying to follow the babies, and more dispersion throughout the territory, so we can see that something is happening, that we are doing something right, but we need to confirm it.”

Alejandra wasn’t just saving a species; she was rebuilding the intricate web of relationships that make a landscape truly alive.

Patagonia’s Glaciers: Crisis & Opportunity

Then came the glaciers. Flying over the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, seeing the vast expanse of ancient ice stretching to the horizon, witnessing Grey Glacier – that’s when the timeline of everything we’d been discussing suddenly became real.

Those Alerce trees in Pumalín that have stood for three millennia? They’re now facing climate conditions they’ve never experienced. The puma territories in Torres del Paine? The precipitation patterns that created those grasslands are shifting. The Darwin’s rhea we’re working so hard to restore? They’ll need to adapt to a world that’s changing faster than anything in their evolutionary history.

What Ines helped me understand transformed how I see these retreating glaciers. Yes, they’re melting at unprecedented rates, but they’re simultaneously revealing landscapes that haven’t seen sunlight for thousands of years. Pioneer species colonize these raw spaces. New ecosystems begin to emerge. The story of these glaciers holds both loss and renewal in the same frame – destruction creating space for unexpected possibilities.

Ines: “Let’s put ourselves in the worst scenario—we lose all the ice or most of the ice in Patagonia. It will have consequences, like every change has consequences. But it will also, if we see, see the good side, these ice will disappear and it will leave space free for new species to colonize. The planet and nature are so plastic. It will find a way. Trees will come and we’ll have a different landscape than what we are used now. We will lose this beautiful ice that is coming up to the sea as we see them today, but nature will find a way.

This paradox – of destruction and creation happening simultaneously – became the lens through which I started seeing the entire Route of Parks. These aren’t static museums preserving a pristine past. They’re dynamic laboratories where evolution continues, where species adapt, where ecosystems reorganize themselves in response to changing conditions.

Protecting Land & Sea: Cape Froward

At Cape Froward, where two oceans meet, Gabi walked me along the beach where ancient forests descend directly to the sea. She explained how the kelp forests just offshore create underwater cities that support marine life, how whales navigate these convergent waters, and  how the trees here have adapted to salt spray and ocean winds. This place embodies the interconnection between terrestrial and marine worlds – ecosystems that evolved together at this dramatic meeting point of the Atlantic and Pacific.

Gabi: “And not only here in Magallanes, but through the whole Route of the Parks, [is] to get people to understand that everything is connected, you know? If you protect even just the kelp forest line, which is a couple of hundred meters. [This is] very important because it’s on the transition from the kelp forest to this forest where you have the most species diversity. It’s called the Ecotone.”

And in the wetlands of the Maullín River basin, the team at Legado Chile taught me that conservation isn’t always about pristine wilderness. Sometimes it’s about working landscapes where people and nature have been intertwined for generations. The huillín they’re working to protect doesn’t need untouched habitat – it needs clean water, intact riverbanks, and communities that see its value.

David: “ What’s important about what we do is we try to do it always in a holistic way and with different disciplines. Like it’s not only conservation, it’s also with the help of education, also relating with the community. So, we need different professionals for that.”

A Blueprint for Planetary Healing

Here’s what I didn’t expect when I started this journey: I thought I was documenting a Chilean story. What I discovered was a blueprint for planetary healing that’s applicable anywhere people are trying to repair their relationship with the living world.

The Route of Parks succeeds because it operates on multiple levels simultaneously. Beyond protecting charismatic species and beautiful landscapes – though it certainly does both – the project demonstrates a completely different way of thinking about conservation, development, and human prosperity. 

Let me break this down, because I think this framework could transform conservation efforts worldwide.

First: Think in Corridors, Not Islands 

Traditional protected areas often function like ecological islands – small patches of protected habitat surrounded by human-dominated landscapes. But real ecosystems don’t respect our boundaries. They require connectivity to function.

The genius of Patagonia’s Route of Parks is that it protects entire gradients – from sea level to mountain peaks, from temperate rainforests to arid steppes. Animals can migrate seasonally, plants can shift their ranges as climate changes, and ecological processes can operate at their natural scales.

This corridor approach isn’t just good for wildlife – it’s essential for climate resilience. As Ines showed us with the glaciers, the places where we’re going to see the most dramatic changes are the transition zones – where forest meets grassland, where freshwater meets saltwater, where mountains meet plains. By protecting these gradients, the Route of Parks preserves nature’s capacity to adapt.

Second: Make Local Communities Conservation Partners, Not Obstacles

This might be the most revolutionary aspect of the Route of Parks approach. Instead of treating local people as threats to conservation, it recognizes them as essential partners.

Think about what we saw at Estancia Cerro Guido, where traditional ranching coexists with puma conservation and wildlife tourism. Or the environmental education programs in the Maullín River basin that train local children to become ecosystem monitors. Or the indigenous communities at Cape Froward who are being included as co-managers of the new national park.

This approach represents strategic brilliance beyond feel-good inclusivity. Protected areas surrounded by hostile communities don’t survive long-term. When local people benefit directly from conservation – through employment, education, sustainable tourism, ecosystem services – they become its strongest defenders.

Third: Restoration is as Important as Protection

The Darwin’s rhea program crystallized something crucial for me. In a world where so many ecosystems have already been damaged, conservation can’t only be about preserving what’s left. We need to actively heal what’s been broken.

The Route of Parks approach to restoration demonstrates remarkable sophistication. Rather than trying to recreate some mythical past, this work helps ecosystems reorganize themselves for an uncertain future. The rhea chicks Alejandra releases do more than replace birds that were lost; they’re rebuilding the ecological relationships that make grasslands resilient.

This is restoration designed for the Anthropocene – acknowledging that human influence is permanent, but choosing to make that influence healing rather than harmful.

Fourth: Climate Action Through Conservation

Those Alerce trees storing three times more carbon per hectare than the Amazon? That’s not just a cool fact – it’s a climate solution. The temperate rainforests of Pumalín, the grasslands of Patagonia National Park, the wetlands of the Maullín River basin – all of these ecosystems are massive carbon sinks.

The Route of Parks extends far beyond carbon storage alone. These protected areas preserve natural climate regulation systems – forests that create rainfall, wetlands that buffer storms, intact watersheds that prevent floods and droughts.

This integration of climate action with biodiversity conservation represents the future of environmental policy. We can’t solve climate change and the biodiversity crisis separately – they’re the same crisis, requiring integrated solutions.

Ines: “I see a huge opportunity in these NGOs and foundations that are focusing on conservation to help on the development of the science in this place.  And I see many people moving towards these goals, and I see that Chile is starting to be aware of the amazing nature that we have. And I see people moving towards the good conservation towards doing education and trying to regain all the knowledge from indigenous people that we have lost  that were more connected with nature.”

Fifth: Scale Ambition to Match the Challenge

Maybe the most important lesson from the Route of Parks is about scale. When Douglas and Kristine Tompkins started buying land in Patagonia, people thought they were crazy. The problems seemed too big, the solutions too expensive, the politics too complicated.

But they understood something crucial: you can’t solve landscape-scale problems with small-scale solutions. Climate change, biodiversity loss, ecosystem degradation – these challenges operate at continental scales. Our responses need to match that ambition.

The Global Applications

As I’ve reflected on these lessons, I keep thinking about other places where this blueprint could be applied. The Great American Outdoors Act in the United States. The European Green Deal’s biodiversity strategy. The proposed Great Green Wall across Africa. Indigenous-led conservation initiatives from the Amazon to the Arctic.

What they all share is this recognition that conservation in the 21st century requires a fundamentally different approach – one that’s bigger in scale, more inclusive in participation, more integrated in its solutions, and more ambitious in its vision.

The Route of Parks isn’t perfect – no conservation initiative is. But it’s functional proof that another way is possible. In an era when environmental news can feel overwhelming, when the problems seem too big and our responses too small, it shows us what it looks like when human ingenuity and natural resilience work together at the scale the moment demands.

That’s the real gift of this journey for me – discovering a template for hope that can be adapted anywhere people are ready to think differently about their relationship with the living world. Beyond documenting a remarkable place, I’ve found a blueprint that transcends geography.

Your Invitation to the Future

So here we are, at the end of our journey through Chile’s Route of Parks of Patagonia, and I want to talk about what happens next.

The Three Pillars of Project Patagonia

This conservation work needs our support to continue. That’s why I’ve created Project Patagonia, built on three simple but powerful pillars.

Listen. You’ve already completed the first pillar by joining me on this journey through all eight episodes of our Route of Parks series. By listening to these stories, learning about these places, and understanding these conservation challenges, you’ve become part of a community that believes in what’s possible when we think differently about our relationship with the natural world.

Protect. The second pillar is direct support for the conservation work we’ve featured. I’m partnering with Nico Lagos and Panthera Chile to raise funds for their crucial puma coexistence research and the innovative Blink+A project that’s revolutionizing how we study and protect big cats. Our goal is to raise at least $20,000 to support this groundbreaking work that’s changing how humans and predators share landscapes.

When you contribute to this campaign, you’re funding camera traps that reveal puma behaviors we’ve never seen before. You’re supporting the technology that helps ranchers protect livestock while coexisting with wildlife. You’re investing in research that could transform predator conservation worldwide.

Experience.  The third pillar is the most transformative: seeing these places yourself. In April 2026, I’m leading an exclusive expedition based in Torres del Paine – my vision of marrying conservation and adventure in one of the world’s most spectacular wilderness areas.

This carefully designed journey will immerse you in the exact landscapes and conservation work we’ve explored throughout this series. You’ll track pumas with expert guides through the same valleys where we encountered Rupestre. You’ll join Nico Lagos for a special conservation dinner, learning firsthand about his groundbreaking research. We’ll embark on epic treks to the park’s most iconic sites – those granite towers that define Patagonia’s skyline. You’ll kayak to Grey Glacier, witnessing the climate stories we discussed with Ines. And for the photographers among us, every moment offers opportunities to capture wildlife and landscapes that few people ever experience.

This approach represents my vision of what adventure travel should be – not just spectacular experiences, but meaningful engagement with conservation efforts and the remarkable people working to protect these places. Every element of the expedition directly supports the research, restoration, and community initiatives that make Torres del Paine a model for conservation worldwide.

To learn more about Project Patagonia and how you can get involved, visit rewildology.com/projectpatagonia. There you’ll find details about supporting Nico’s puma research, booking your spot on the April 2026 expedition, and joining a community of people who believe that audacious conservation dreams can become reality.

I’m Brooke Mitchell, and this has been Rewildology’s exploration of Chile’s Route of Parks of Patagonia. Thank you for this incredible journey. Now let’s see where these stories take us next.

Credits

This series was made possible by the extraordinary generosity of everyone who shared their knowledge, time, and passion with us.

Special thanks to Rafa, Nicole, and Carlo from BirdsChile, who guided us through so much of this journey with infectious enthusiasm and deep expertise. To Nicolás Lagos from Panthera Chile for sharing his groundbreaking puma research. To Alejandra Saavedra and the entire team at Rewilding Chile’s Darwin’s rhea breeding program. To Gabriela Garrido for showing us the future of marine-terrestrial conservation at Cabo Froward. To the incredible team at Fundación Legado Chile – Andres, David, and Fernando – for their tireless work protecting Chile’s wetlands.

Thank you to Ines Dussaillant for revealing the secrets of Patagonia’s glaciers and their climate stories. To the communities throughout the Route of Parks who welcomed us and shared their perspectives. To Estancia Cerro Guido and all the other organizations working to demonstrate that conservation and human livelihoods can thrive together.

Thanks to our translator Emiliana, whose careful work allowed us to share stories across languages. To our drivers, pilots, and guides who got us safely to some of the most remote places on Earth.

This series is dedicated to the vision of Kristine and Douglas Tompkins, whose audacious dream of connected wilderness became the Route of Parks we’ve explored together.

Most importantly, thank you to the listeners who joined us on this journey. Your engagement gives these stories power to create change.

This has been Rewildology. Until our next adventure, keep exploring, keep questioning, and keep believing in what’s possible when human vision aligns with natural resilience.

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